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Author Topic: Suspension Redux  (Read 16401 times)

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« on: February 27, 2013, 06:33:25 PM »

Michael Yount

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Suspension Redux
« on: February 27, 2013, 06:33:25 PM »
And so it begins......



IPD Sport Springs, Bilstein HD\'s, rear sway and GT-style strut tower braces coming out.

Koni Sports, Eibach Springs (2.5\" ID front, 5\" OD rear), Homemade adjustable rear perches, Kaplhenke Racing strut brace, camber plates, LuxeSteer bearing, roll-center/bump steer correctors, and front threaded perches.

When we\'re done - it should look just like it does below (maybe 1/2\" lower) - but will have a lot more suspension control, ability to crank in more negative camber and have the cross weights adjusted to 50/50.

'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

«Reply #1 on: March 01, 2013, 04:56:37 PM »

Michael Yount

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Suspension Redux
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2013, 04:56:37 PM »
Part deux of the parts arrived today - super/duper strut tower brace, camber plates, roll center/bump steer correctors, front coil-over perches.

'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

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«Reply #2 on: March 05, 2013, 06:43:53 PM »

Michael Yount

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« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2013, 06:43:53 PM »
Got the rear suspension apart today.  Exhaust off first - necessary to take the sway bar off and just makes things much easier as it limits rear droop (nobody likes rear droop) which makes gas charged shocks and compressed springs tougher to remove.  6 bolts and two rubber biscuit hangers.  About 10 minutes.  I don\'t think I\'ll ever run an exhaust system over the axle again.



Outsmarted myself when I put the 8.8\" in the car a few years back.  I mated the lower control arms to the rearend BEFORE the rearend was in the car.  Which meant the brakes/backing plates went on AFTER the lower control arm bolts went in.  And the e\'brake assembly and axle retainer set up is a pain in the arse to remove.  Unfortunately there\'s not enough room to remove the bolt before it hits the backing plate.  I screwed up.  Fortunately, I had two of these bolts (M14 x 120mm x grade 8.8) from the junk rearend we used to set up the 8.8\".  So - 10 minutes later - the Sawzall rescued me.



And a bit after that drama - it was all out.  IPD sport springs, a 1\" spacer at the top (between perch and frame rail), multiple 1/8\" spacers at the bottom to adjust ride height/corner weight), 25mm IPD sway bar and Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks.  Yes - turns out with more careful measurement I had 1.25\" of spacers in the back to make the car sit level with the IPD sport springs in the front.



Now - a bit of welding to do to create my adjustable perches and I should be able to install the new stuff.  Also received my 3/8\" manifold spacer today - so after the rearend is set up, I\'ll take the upper intake off to \'lower\' it so Ben\'s lovely strut tower brace will fit with enough clearance.
'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

«Reply #3 on: March 06, 2013, 08:40:39 AM »

02JEEPX

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Suspension Redux
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2013, 08:40:39 AM »
You are making great progress!
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«Reply #4 on: March 06, 2013, 09:04:47 AM »

Michael Yount

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« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2013, 09:04:47 AM »
Let me tell ya - those 1\" steel spacers Marc/James put in 13 years ago to raise the rearend to a reasonable height were a BEAR to get out.  Took letting the impact hammer it for a bit -- and then a 18\" pull bar with a 12\" cheater pipe to break them loose.  Thankfully they came free without damage.  That\'s a threaded hole/captured nut in the frame rail....
'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

«Reply #5 on: March 06, 2013, 11:29:48 AM »

02JEEPX

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« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2013, 11:29:48 AM »
Yeah, we didn\'t want them to come out! :) How many curse words did you use? LOL
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«Reply #6 on: March 06, 2013, 12:18:00 PM »

Michael Yount

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« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2013, 12:18:00 PM »
Only used one.  But I might have used it multiple times.  ;)
'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

«Reply #7 on: March 06, 2013, 05:45:01 PM »

Michael Yount

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« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2013, 05:45:01 PM »
Well - step 2 on the rear adjustable perches pretty much went without drama.  Welded a captured nut and washer inside the perches with most of the cone cut off.  Then put the high strength bolt through the control arm hole, a hardened washer and a jam nut on the other side and tacked the jam nut to the bolt.  So the bolt is captured in the hole but is free to spin.  So now, with the spring pushing on the perch -- you simply turn the bolt with a ratchet/socket from the bottom of the control arm, and the perch rides up/down the threads.  Also a jam nut to lock the perch in place once you have the height/weight set the way you want it.  I also tracked down some really hard, synthetic gasket material at the hardware store and took a stab at making some insulators.  I\'ll use the stock Volvo insulator at the top, and this one on the bottom.  There are 6 tabs that turn \'up\' and keep the spring centered around the cone and keep it from contacting the cone.  Worst comes to worst - it doesn\'t work or doesn\'t hold up - and I\'ll put the stock Volvo insulators on the bottom too.



 

If my calcs were correct, the perch should sit about in the middle of the bolt at the ride height I\'m after -- which should give me about 3/4\" adjustment either way.  And that\'s plenty to move weight around to set cross weight.  I need to shift about 36 pounds per corner -- with a 175 lb/in spring - well, ya\'ll can do the math.  More to report once it\'s reinstalled and driven.
'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

«Reply #8 on: March 07, 2013, 09:42:04 AM »

02JEEPX

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« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2013, 09:42:04 AM »
Looks good so far. Great progress!
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02Jeep X, 1992 Camry, 200? EZ-GO, 2010 Cannondale F5

«Reply #9 on: March 11, 2013, 07:04:35 PM »

Michael Yount

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« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2013, 07:04:35 PM »
Update -- looks like the 13\" spring is going to be too long.  Won\'t be able to get to the ride height that I want with it.  And when I go to 11\" - the spring hat will have to be too far up my makeshift perch -- too much bending load on the bolt.  

So - ordered a set of \'proper\' threaded perches and 11\" springs.  Meanwhile, I\'ll move on to \'lowering\' the intake manifold.
'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

«Reply #10 on: March 11, 2013, 07:08:28 PM »

Michael Yount

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« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2013, 07:08:28 PM »
BTW - here\'s what the strut bar will look like under the hood.  I\'ll have it powder coated satin black once I\'ve done any \'adjusting\' needed to insure a proper fit.  I\'ve got a 3/8\" lower/upper manifold phenolic spacer to go in to replace my 1\" spacer.  I\'ll need to lower the intake by that 5/8\" to achieve sufficient clearance under the strut tower brace.

'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

«Reply #11 on: March 12, 2013, 02:12:29 PM »

02JEEPX

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Suspension Redux
« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2013, 02:12:29 PM »
How you gonna lower the intake?
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02Jeep X, 1992 Camry, 200? EZ-GO, 2010 Cannondale F5

«Reply #12 on: March 12, 2013, 02:57:17 PM »

Michael Yount

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« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2013, 02:57:17 PM »
I have a 1\" spacer between lower and upper that raises the upper by ---- wait for it ----- 1\".   I bought a 3/8\" to replace it with.  That will give me 5/8\" more clearance which will be plenty.
'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

«Reply #13 on: March 12, 2013, 03:09:02 PM »

02JEEPX

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Suspension Redux
« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2013, 03:09:02 PM »
Didn\'t know you had the spacer, you ricer!
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02Jeep X, 1992 Camry, 200? EZ-GO, 2010 Cannondale F5

«Reply #14 on: March 12, 2013, 08:52:24 PM »

Michael Yount

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« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2013, 08:52:24 PM »
It was part of the first combo with a cam that was weak on the bottom; a little extra runner length to help torque down low.  But I changed that cam pretty quickly (within weeks....).  My Japanese wife wants to know what you mean by \'ricer\'?  lol
'82 Volvo 242; '10 Cayman S; '15 Fit

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